The Barri (more than one Barrus): The Narrows at Zion

Since it was decided that we would be at Brian Head and Cedar City for our reunion, James suggested we hike The Narrows in Zion. I have wanted to hike The Narrows for years, and I was thrilled with the idea that I could do it with family. I hoped Kent would want to come, too, but found that I was the only one of the four us interested in doing it. I told James I was in, and we hoped we would get a permit.

We got a permit, and then planning began. James sent an informative email with clothing suggestions, including what sorts of shoes to wear. We also began watching the weather and rainfall forecasts. In preparation, I did quite a bit of hiking with Kim Daw and hoped my regular cycling would keep me fit enough to make it.

The Narrows is described in the Zion National Park brochure like this:

The Virgin River has carved a spectacular gorge in the upper reaches of Zion Canyon--16 miles long, up to 2,000-feet deep, and at times only 20-30-feet wide. The Narrows, with its soaring walls, sandstone grottos, natural springs, and hanging gardens can be an unforgettable experience. It is not, however, a trip to be underestimated. Hiking The Narrows means hiking in the Virgin River. At least 60 percent of the hike is spent wading, wakling, and sometimes swimming in the river. There is no maintained trail because the route is the river. The current is swift, the water may be cold and deep, and the rocks underfoot are slippery. Flash flooding and hypothermia are constant dangers. Good planning, proper equipment, and sound judgement are essential for a safe and successful trip. Your safety is your responsibility.

This week, as we have been together, it has rained, and rained, and rained. Rain miles away from The Narrows can mean a rise in the water volume, and can make hiking treacherous. As it said, flash flooding is a constant danger. We made plans based on a website that had daily volume charts, and went to bed last night with concern because the level was orange. Green means no problem, flash flooding unlikely; yellow means still good to go, flash flooding possible; orange means give it some serious thought because flash flooding is likely, and red means do not go in the canyon, you will be swept away. I said a prayer, asking that the elements would be tempered so we could hike.

We woke at 5:00 with an intended 5:30 departure time. It takes over two hours to get from anywhere with a bed to the trailhead, and we wanted to begin hiking by 8:00am. Because it is 16 miles long, we knew we would be hiking for hours and hours, and the last bus out of Zions departs the Temple of Sinawava at 9:15pm. That's how long we had. When we woke, the first thing I did was check the flow chart website and found that the level was yellow. Yay! Still good to go! I made lunch, warmed up my breakfast burrito, and Kent came down to help get us to the trailhead. We needed drivers willing to be in the car for hours with no real reward to take those of us hiking to where we needed to be.

It was a long drive, but we had Emily and Annie Burnett, and Brianne with us. We made lively conversation once the sun came up, and all arrived in good time. We were thirteen hikers, the most a permit would allow. I was so grateful to Kent for taking us because his day was not terrific. He dropped us off just before 8:00am, then drove back to the hotel just in time to load up the car with lots of stuff for 11:00am check out. He then drove to St. George where we were staying the night at Craig and Monica's house. He wasn't there very long before thinking he needed to be in Zion to pick us up. He brought Blythe, as well as Alisa, Erika and Carter, and Tad, all our drivers. They waited five hours for us, just hanging around the visitor's center, watching every shuttle that came in, not wanting to miss us. I felt horrible that they were there so long. I had suggested they come up to the Temple of Sinawava and hike up for a bit, maybe meeting us on the way down. Kent, ever kind and good, said it was fine, they visited and entertained Carter, and had a nice time, even though the wait was so long, but they totally got the short end of the stick.

The thirteen of us who hiked, however, had a marvelous time. I don't know how many times I said, "This is fantastic!" but it was a lot. The canyon is so beautiful, those towering walls majestic, the narrow bits really tremendous. The water was not too swift, nor too high, nor too cold. I was worried it would feel like pins and needles the whole hike, but it was perfect temperature. We criss crossed the river many, many, many times, and looking back, we probably should have stuck as close to the middle as possible. According to Emily's step counter, we hiked 30.8 miles, nearly twice as far as the actual river. Next time I'll try and do it differently. But that is the only complaint I have. The company was great, we all talked and laughed and soaked up the scenery. The path of the river gave us all sorts of variation; there were moments where the water was only just above the tops of my feet, and other places where it was so deep we had to swim. You have to take out everything you bring in, including your own human waste, and I am happy to report, I didn't need to poop. They tell you to just pee in the water, so every time the water was up to my waist or nearly so, I relieved myself. We didn't encounter anyone until we were within three miles of the end, and then it was just three people camping at one of the sites. We walked through, said hello, and carried on. There were more people within a mile of the finish, those who were hiking up the river from the end, but that was somewhat comforting because we had been hiking for so long and couldn't really tell how far we still had left. I was so delighted I was able to hike, and so pleased to have done it with so many Barri. It might have been the highlight of the whole summer for me.

There will now follow a great many pictures.